“She stopped when she arrived at the twenty-to-thirty square meter sized small cemetery at the end of the road to Visnezade park where identical buildings lined the street up to that point. Despite the later hour of the day there was still the smell of soot emanating from the extinguished candles. She leaned her walking stick against the wall where the blackened remnants of wax were piled upon, and took out one of the candles wrapped in paper from her pocket. She lit it and affixed it to the soft surface. She said her prayers, and ended it with an amen. Taking her walking stick from where she’d put it, she started walking again.”

Nobody puts candles on cemetery walls anymore. You can’t even if you wanted to. They put up iron bars and wire fencing. It smells of soot and the walls have turned black! God forbid, it’s a fire hazard.

And so this hundreds of years old custom from the Ottoman Empire has been forgotten.

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